The debut collection from Jorum Studio definitely goes against the grain, in more ways than one!
The notion of using a combination of natural and manufactured materials to investigate natural elements, both common and rare, is the foundation of the Progressive Botany Vol. I collection. A library of six perfumes designed to challenge and inspire the wearer, all made by hand by us here in Edinburgh.
Within the collection you will find two groups: Progressive and Botany. Those perfumes grouped within Progressive urge the wearer to investigate with a closer eye (or nose!), and the Botany fragrances have the aim to be somewhat more familiar to the wearer albeit with an original twist on the norm.
For every Progressive fragrance there is a Botany pairing; the fragrances have been formulated in this way to give complimentary or contrasting interactions.
Although designed to be worn on their own in the first instance, our perfumes tempt you into experimentation, and we’re always interested to know what combinations people come up with. If you have a favourite combo, we'd love to hear it.
P.S we love wearing these with other brands fragrances too, the combinations are endless really!
Now, we all know fragrance is subjective, but we’ve got some notes on our interpretations of the Progressive Botany Vol. I collection perfumes to give a brief map for your own journey of discovery…
Progressive
The ‘Progressive’ part of the perfume collection is made up of fragrances that do not conform to the standard structures found in traditional (or even modern) perfumery. By removing the traditional trajectory, it allows the wearer to truly discover something new, and explore the fragrances and the materials used within them in a different way.
These perfumes are deliberately designed to be heady, and somewhat polarizing by association, with a slow reveal of their true character after some time.
A study of Man’s relationship with nature
Arborist is an ode to the Virideer, a Scottish term for a keeper of woodland, and the days spent in the verdant canopy.
Arborist welcomes you with boozy shrubs, both imposing and charming. Then, amidst fertile roots, rises a fusion of woody veneers. This perfume holds the wearer with a tender grip.
Nemo me impune lacessit; The Order of the Thistle
Unapologetically polarizing, Carduus offers you a rather savoury experience rich in spices, woods, resin and roots.
Undulating between weightlessness and density, Carduus is dark and mysterious with a sombre atmosphere, giving the wearer an armour with which to indulge in deep introspection.
A sticky mess!
The aromatic equivalent of sweet Marmite, Phloem is an audacious assemblage of materials that should oppose, but somehow attract.
A jumble of vibrant flowers, musky grains, sugary fruits and light woods. At first your attention is diverted here there and everywhere with Phloem, but in time one finds clarity in the chaos.
Botany
As a counterbalance to the intentionally divisive Progressive perfumes, the fragrances within the Botany selection offer something a little more familiar, but with a bit of a twist to keep it interesting.
I like to wear these perfumes generously! For me, the Botany selection are perfect for mixing with other brands perfumes too, adding a little highlight, a richness or a refined texture to soften harsher notes say.
A Tuscan still life
This is a rather romantic composition of savoury fruits and dry botanicals, evoking a dream of Tuscan springtime. Imagine yourself contemplating in an Italian villa, the windows open to a Zephyrus afternoon that presents you with the aroma of freshly planed wood and picked-fruit, almost too ripe.
Flickering between mellow and bellicose, Medullary-ray has an inherent self-confidence and sophistication.
A triptych of veils shading the finest facets of prized orris root
This is not an ode to the orris, but a love letter to the devoted hands that harvest the prized root.
Trimerous highlights the often-forgotten qualities of the Iris. It’s effervescent, buttery and exalting nature.
A garden for the skin
Evoking a daydream of flower, leaf and soil in equal parts, Nectary is a regal rose-garden that grows on the skin.
Pretty petal notes are grounded by mineral sensations. It is a pure, floral photograph with some prickly adornments. Watch the thorns!
The future of Progressive Botany
The Progressive Botany Vol. I Collection possess an inherent Scottish-ness yet many of our concepts have their starting points much further afield and some are complete fantasy. Scotland is beautiful and our history is inspiring, but our heritage does not define us, it is linked fundamentally.
As a perfumer Euan uses manufactured and natural origin raw materials to recreate rather uncommon naturally occurring aromas - many of which are found across our native Scotland. There are many wonderful and beautiful flowers, trees, plants what-have-you found across Scotland however there are few which can be harvested for their aromatic properties for use in perfumery. The few that you do find here in Scotland are commonly found elsewhere in the world and are grown specifically to yield high levels of aromatic oil for use in the fragrance (and/or flavour) trade. Scotland’s climate is pretty tough for growing plants prized for their aromatic properties and more climatic regions tend to yield more aromatic oil and of a greater quality.
To cut a long story short, those rare and wonderful beauties we find here in Scotland need more investigation and analysis. We are working on it progressively.
You will however find many uncommon materials, notes and sensations listed in our product descriptions – most of these are ‘accords’ created by us in response to the subject in question. Many of these notes are direct translations of Scottish botanicals, some of this work starting well over a decade ago now. We have investigated and have toyed with extracting these endemic species in-house however this area is rife with issues; ecological, performance and overall viability. So, for the time being its good old ‘nosing’, experience, skill, creativity and analytics to create (or rather, recreate) those desired notes.
For us, Jorum is always about authenticity and integrity and that notion is inherent with everything we do. Across every touch-point, product, person, story or way of working.
We’re incredibly excited to hear your interpretation of our lovingly handmade perfumes so please do get in touch and let us know what you think!